Theyskens' Theory Spring 2012

When you see Theyskens' Theory collection, you are reminded of the extraordinary fact that this is one of high fashion’s most romantic, deeply talented designers creating clothes for a contemporary American sportswear brand, which has become known for their well-fitting pants. It’s a most unlikely (and brilliant) collaboration. Olivier Theyskens plays that note between edgy and feminine like a virtuoso violinist — there’s a delicacy to even the most basic pieces that makes us sigh. For Spring 2012, there was a standard outfit: a pair of slouchy skinny pants worn over the sky-highest heels ever, with a metallic top and an exquisitely tailored tweed jacket that bore all the markings of a world-class designer. “Basic sweaters” had cutaway backs and crochet details, and were often woven through with metallic threading. One incredible green beaded jacket, as ornate as anything to be found in designer or even couture collections, shiny pants that looked like they had been cut from rainbow-hued cellophane, and a glowing white shift were made for the cool disco set. He finished with delicate organza gowns, one black and one oyster-hued, with a cutaway back and a slightly transparent quality. In short, it was dreamy.

• Trends: Tailored jackets, metallics, crochet, downtown chic.
• Colors: Silver, chrome, metallic green, white, gray, navy.
• Key Piece: Tailored tweed blazers that look even better from the back, metallic "cellophane" pants, a beaded green jacket.
• Accessories: Sleek bags, including a large square, flat portfolio bag, insanely high platform stilettos, and motorcycle boots.
• Who Would Wear It: Sleek, downtown girls.