Review and Pictures of Chanel Autumn Winter 2012 Paris Fashion Week Runway Show

Both a reimagining and an homage to the label's signature aesthetic, Karl Lagerfeld plays in tweed, sporty silhouettes, and whimsical layers and texture (and bejewelled eyebrows) for Chanel's Autumn/Winter 2012. Lagerfeld's all-star cast (minus a noticeably absent Freja), including Miranda Kerr, Joan Smalls, Anja Rubik, and newbie Montana Cox took to the catwalk of a snowy white cave, done up in crystal embellishments that mirrored the life-size versions set on the runway. That in itself set the mood for whimsy, which only became more pronounced in Karl's colourful, metallic-embellished visions for A/W '12 — shimmer reflected in slim pants, sparkly-tinged knits, and sheer skirts. Meanwhile, Chanel's tweed got the rainbow treatment, as did the offering of diaphanous frocks with a dose of soft brights. Outerwear maintained the label's sophistication, though the flair for drama was evidenced in roomier silhouettes, some that gave way to boxier shapes with sloped, rounded shoulders, but more that skimmed and highlighted curves in hourglass proportions. That's not to say that it was "ladylike" — very little here spoke to Chanel's ladylike sensibility. In fact, the feel was overwhelmingly sportier. Even when textures were dressed up in rich metallic detail, shapes were more nonchalant — tunics and dresses layered over pants and perfectly slouchy knits topped trousers. There was nothing too literal; even in playfulness, Karl never overcommits. Jewel tones and geometric details felt fresh, and proportional play felt casual, not overworked. He knows exactly how to draw us in with the theatrics of his runway, but never loses sight of what we've all come to see.

• Trends: Dresses over pants, texture, sporty, brights, sheer, metallics.
• Colours: Black, green, white, fuchsia, purple, yellow, grey, teal, blue.
• Key Piece: The textured metallic trousers were amazing.
• Accessories: Cut-out buckled Lucite heels, oversize crystal pendants and matching bracelets, Chanel crossbody handbags and clutches in every hue.
• Who Would Wear It: Karl's girls, Diane Kruger, Rachel Bilson, and Blake Lively.