Pictures and Review of J.Mendel Spring Summer New York Fashion Week Runway Show

Finding inspiration in the Kawachi Fuji gardens in Japan, Mendel's set is sophisticated to start — with clean lines, luxe details, and even mink coming down the Spring runway — then quickly evolves into something colour-rich and definitively feminine. The onset is an exercise in more modern construction and a pale palette: soft pinks and greens. Then, with a sequence of light-as-air, diaphanous, pleated dresses, Mendel hints at what's to come. The entirety of the show seems to literally blossom right there on the runway. From tailored short sets and leather skirts to full-bodied prints on suiting, sheaths, and an intensely pretty violet pleated gown, the transformation is beautiful to watch (and obviously even more so to wear). As the show neared its finale, each brightly hued confection seemed lovelier than the next, until finally the collection closed out with a bold, orange, pleated gown with nods to the designer's botanical references, made only more literal with floral appliqués. This is why we're used to seeing Mendel on the red carpet and hearing A-listers credit his label at nearly every high-profile awards show: J. Mendel is masterful at crafting clothes that make women feel and look insanely gorgeous — and here's the proof.

• Trends: Brights, slits, pleats, cutouts, fur, leather, and floral print.
• Colours: Violet, navy, coral, peach, pink, and white.
• Key Piece: The diaphanous, sheer-pleated dresses were stunning.
• Accessories: Ankle-strap sandals and pointed-toe pumps.
• Who Should Wear It: We see beauty Natalie Portman in the violet, pleated, floor-length gown.